Food · Regional cuisines

"Chinese food" is eight cuisines pretending to be one.

What you order in Chengdu is barely related to what you order in Guangzhou. Here's a short map by region — and what to actually point at when the menu is only Chinese.

Beijing & the North (鲁菜 / 京菜)

  • Peking duck — Siji Minfu (affordable) or Dadong (refined). Pancakes, scallion, sweet bean sauce, repeat.
  • Jianbing — savory breakfast crepe with crispy cracker inside. Any street cart.
  • Old Beijing zhajiangmian — thick noodles, soybean paste, julienned cucumber.
  • Lamb hot pot — copper-pot, clear broth, dipped in sesame sauce. Donglaishun is the original.

Sichuan (川菜)

The most exciting cuisine in China for adventurous eaters. Mala = numbing (Sichuan peppercorn) + spicy (chili). Order:

  • Mapo tofu — silken tofu in chili-bean sauce with minced pork.
  • Shuizhu yu — fish poached in chili oil. Looks scarier than it is.
  • Dan dan mian — noodles with chili, peanut, and pork.
  • Hot pot — the social meal. Order half-spicy / half-mild for survival.
  • Gong bao ji ding — kung pao chicken, the original. Peanuts, dried chili, vinegar.

Cantonese (粤菜)

The cuisine your hometown's "Chinese restaurant" comes from, done properly. Subtle, ingredient-driven, less spice.

  • Dim sum — har gow, siu mai, char siu bao, cheung fun. Best at brunch with tea.
  • Char siu — roast pork over rice. The benchmark dish.
  • Steamed fish — whole, with ginger and scallion, soy poured over at the table.
  • Clay-pot rice — burnt rice on the bottom is the prize.

Shanghainese & Jiangsu (本帮菜 / 苏菜)

  • Xiaolongbao — soup dumplings. Din Tai Fung (Taiwanese chain, very good) or Jia Jia Tang Bao (local, $).
  • Shengjianbao — pan-fried soup dumplings with crispy bottom.
  • Hongshao rou — red-braised pork belly, sweet and rich.
  • Lion's head meatballs — fist-sized pork meatballs in clear broth.

Xinjiang & the Northwest

  • Lamb skewers — cumin, chili, charcoal. Found in every city now.
  • Hand-pulled noodles (la mian) and biang biang noodles from Xi'an.
  • Da pan ji — "big plate chicken" with potatoes and pulled noodles.

How to order when nobody speaks English

  • Point at other tables' food. Universal language.
  • Use Apple Translate or Baidu Translate's camera mode on the menu. Picture menus are common.
  • Two dishes per person, plus rice. Family-style — everything is shared.
  • Tea is free at most restaurants. Ask for "cha" (茶).

Eat where

Use Dianping (China's Yelp) or just walk into anywhere full of locals on a weekday lunch. Hotel restaurants are usually mediocre and 3× the price. For specifics, see the Beijing, Shanghai, and Chengdu guides.